Кристофер Бруард - Модный Лондон. Одежда и современный мегаполис
Borsa. English Stage. P. 5.
212
McQueen Pope. Gaiety. P. 405.
213
Здесь и далее – пер. Е. Суриц. (Прим. ред.)
214
Woolf. Mrs Dalloway. Harmondsworth: Penguin, 1996. Рр. 2–3.
215
Ibid. Р. 9.
216
Lee H. Virginia Woolf. Chatto & Windus. 1996. Р. 552.
217
Woolf. Dalloway. Р. 15.
218
Light A. Forever England: Femininity, Literature and Conservatism between the Wars. London: Routledge, 1991. P. 115.
219
Struther J. Mrs Miniver. London: Virago, 1989. P. 14.
220
Lee H. The Novels of Virginia Woolf. London: Methuen, 1977. P. 94.
221
Priestly J.B. English Journey. London: Heinemann, 1934. Pp. 401–402.
222
Ibid. Pp. 402–403.
223
Llewellyn Smith H. (ed.). The New Survey of London Life & Labour. Vol. I. London: King & Son, 1930. P. 171.
224
Ibid. P. 191.
225
Ibid. Pp. 192–193.
226
Forester C.W. Success through Dress. London: Duckworth, 1925. P. 62.
227
Ibid. P. 27.
228
Ibid. Pp. 20–21.
229
Dobbs S.P. The Clothing Workers of Great Britain. London: Routledge, 1928. P. 4.
230
Ibid. P. 7.
231
Ibid. P. 70.
232
Llewellyn Smith H. (ed.). The New Survey of London Life & Labour. Vol. II. London: King & Son, 1931. P. 261.
233
Dobbs. The Clothing Workers. 8. P. 36.
234
Llewellyn Smith (ed.). The New Survey. Vol. II. P. 255.
235
Dobbs. The Clothing Workers. Pp. 77–78.
236
Llewellyn Smith (ed.). The New Survey. Vol. II. P. 305.
237
Ibid. P. 272.
238
Ibid. P. 283.
239
Settle A. Clothes Line. London: Methuen, 1937. Pp. 22–23.
240
В распоряжении Музея Лондона есть свадебное платье, соответствующее этому описанию. Хартнелл создал его для миссис Карл Бендикс, которая надела его на бал Dream of Fair Woman в феврале 1928 г. в отеле Claridges. Accession number 39.162a – c.
241
Graham S. London Nights. London: Hurst & Blackett, 1925. P. 1.
242
Schlor J. Nights in the Big City: Paris, Berlin, London 1840–1930. London: Reaktion, 1998. P. 269.
243
Graham. London Nights. Pp. 13–14.
244
Ibid. Pp. 195–196.
245
Schlor. Nights in the Big City. Pp. 172–174.
246
Graham. London Nights. P. 198.
247
Richards J. The Age of the Dream Palace: Cinema and Society in Britain 1930–1939. London: Routledge & Kegan Paul. 1984. Pp. 15–33.
248
Llewellyn Smith H. (ed.). The New Survey of London Life & Labour. Vol. IX. London: King & Son, 1935. P. 47.
249
Richards. The Age of the Dream Palace. P. 209.
250
Ibid. P. 224.
251
Graham S. Twice Round the London Clock and More London Nights. London: Ernest Benn, 1933. Pp. 131–135.
252
Llewellyn Smith (ed.). New Survey. Vol. IX. Pp. 64–65.
253
Ibid. Pp. 51, 77.
254
Priestly J.B. Angel Pavement. London: William Heinemann, 1937. Pp. 501–502.
255
Пер. М. Абкиной. (Прим. ред.)
256
Garland M. The Indecisive Decade: The World of Fashion and Entertainment in the 30s. London: Macdonald & Co, 1968. Pp. 102–104.
257
Benjamin T. London Shops and Shopping. London: Herbert Joseph, 1934. Pp. 189–190.
258
Cohen-Portheim P. The Spirit of London. Philadelphia: J.B. Lippincott, 1930. Pp. 41–47.
259
Benjamin. London Shops. P. 190.
260
Montizambert E. London Discoveries in Shops and Restaurants. London: Women Publishers Ltd., 1924. P. 81.
261
Marshall F. London West. London: The Studio, 1944. P. 9.
262
Settle. Clothes Line. P. 99.
263
Cohen-Portheim. Spirit of London. Pp. 41–42.
264
Montizambert. London Discoveries. P. 82.
265
Benjamin T. A Shopping Guide to London. N.Y.: Robert McBride, 1930. Pp. 91–92.
266
Montizambert. London Discoveries. P. 43.
267
Ibid.
268
Ibid. Pp. 37–40.
269
Cohen-Portheim. Spirit of London. P. 47.
270
Montizambert. London Discoveries. P. 50.
271
Cohen-Portheim. Spirit of London. P. 41.
272
Woolf V. Oxford Street Tide // The London Scene. London: Hogarth Press, 1975. Pp. 16–20. Также см.: Breward C. In the Eye of the Storm: Oxford Circus and the Fashioning of Modernity // Fashion Theory: The Journal of Dress, Body & Culture. Vol. 4.1. 2000. Pp. 3–26.
273
Montizambert. London Discoveries. Pp. 7–8.
274
Ibid. P. 9.
275
Benjamin. London Shops. P. 161.
276
Ibid. P. 179.
277
Ibid. P. 95.
278
Ibid. P. 106.
279
Halliday S. Underground to Everywhere: London’s Underground Railway in the Life of the Capital. Stroud: Sutton, 2001.
280
Llewellyn Smith (ed.). New Survey. Vol. I. P. 191.
281
Gren O. Underground Art: London Transport Posters. London: Laurence King, 1999. Pp. 14–15.
282
Ibid. P. 70.
283
Jackson A. Semi-Detached London: Suburban Development, Life and Transport 1900–1939. London: Allen & Unwin, 1973. P. 180.
284
Raymond L. Guide to Edgware. London: The British Publishing Company Ltd., 1927. Pp. 11–12.
285
Mill Hill and Edgware. London: Service, 1934. P. 2.
286
Ibid. P. 71.
287
Llewellyn Smith H. (ed.). The New Survey of London Life & Labour. Vol. V. London: King & Son, 1933. P. 163.
288
Ibid. Pp. 164–165.
289
Evans D.H. Mail Order Catalogue and Fashion Supplement. 1939. Guildhall Library. Pam 12379.
290
Carey J. The Intellectuals and the Masses. London: Faber & Faber, 1992.
291
Duff C. (ed.). Anthropological Report on a London Suburb by Prof. Chernichewski. London: Grayson & Grayson, 1935.
292
Humble N. The Feminine Middlebrow Novel, 1920s to 1950. Oxford: Oxford University Press, 2001. Pp. 87–88, 131–132.
293
Browne K.R.G. Suburban Days. London: Cassell, 1928. P. 211.
294
Settle. Clothes Line. P. 86.
295
Amies H. Just so far. London: Collins, 1945. P. 245.
296
Буквально – «и так по сей день». (Прим. ред.)
297
Incorporated Society of London Fashion Designers. (Прим. пер.)
298
См.: Ehrman E. The Spirit of English Style: Hardy Amies, Royal Dressmaker and International Businessman // Breward C., Conekin B., Cox C. (eds). The Englishness of English Dress. Oxford: Berg, 2002. Pp. 140–142.
299
Эти трое – дизайнер интерьеров Питер Коутс, финансист Уильям Акройд (который консультировал Эмиса по вопросам графских привычек) и плейбой Марк Гилби.
300
Viscusi R. Max Beerbohm, or the Dandy Dante, Re-reading with Mirrors. Baltimore: John Hopkins university Press, 1986. P. 28.
301
Коды доступа в Музее Лондона: 60.30/2, 60.30/6, 60.30/8, 60.30/11.
302
Indian summer. (Прим. пер.)
303
Porter R. London: A Social History. London: Hamish Hamilton, 1994. P. 344.
304
Ричард Сейферт – архитектор, автор одного из первых лондонских небоскребов, Centre Point. (Прим. ред.)
305
Hopkins H. The New Look: A Social History of the Fortties and Fifties. London: Secker & Warburg, 1964. Pp. 427–428.
306
Smart Schmutter. (Прим. пер.)
307
MacInnes C. England, Half English: A Polyphoto of the Fifties. Harmondsworth: Penguin, 1966. P. 151.
308
Fyvel T. The Insecure Offenders: Rebellious Youth on the Welfare State. London: Chatto & Windus, 1961. Pp. 48–51.
309
Ibid. Pp. 14–15.
310
Hebdige D. Subculture: The Meaning of Style. London: Routledge, 1979. P. 51.
311
Pearson G. Hooligan: A History of Respectable Fears. London: Macmillan, 1983. Pp. 20–22.
312
Williams H. South London. London: Robert Hale, 1949. P. 331.
313
Ibid. P. 320.
314
Willcock H.D. Mass Observation Report on Juvenile Delinquency. London: Falcon Press, 1949. P. 41.
315
См.: Davies A. Leisure, Gender & Poverty: Worrking Class Culture in Salford & Manchester. Buckingham: Open University Press, 1992. См. также: Ugolini L. Clothes and the Modern Man in 1930s Oxford // Fashion Theory: The Journal of Dress, Body & Culture. 2000. Vol. 4.4.
316
Willcock H.D. Mass Observation Report on Juvenile Delinquency. London: Falcon Press, 1949. Pp. 50–51.
317
Ibid. P. 50.
318
Hopkins H. The New Look: A Social History of the Forties and Fifties. London: Secker & Warburg. 1964. Pp. 98–99.
319
Murphy R. Smash and Grab: Gangsters in the London Underworld 1920–1960. London: Faber & Faber, 1993. P. 85.
320
Fyvel T. The Insecure Offenders: Rebellious Youth on the Welfare State. London: Chatto & Windus, 1961. P. 52.
321
Вариант приталенного пиджака с мягкой драпировкой (припуском) на передних полочках, широкими плечами и рукавом, зауженным к запястью, покрой которого отличает плавная линия проймы и выраженная талия с клешеными полами. (Прим. ред.)
322
MacInnes C. England, Half English: A Polyphoto of the Fifties. Harmondsworth: Penguin, 1966. P. 150.
323
Я благодарен куратору отдела костюма Мадлен Гинзбург за эти воспоминания.
324
Chamberlain M. Growing Up in Lambeth. London: Virago, 1989. Pp. 78–79.
325
Sutherland D. Portrait of a Decade: London Life 1945–1955. London: Harrap, 1988. Pp. 49–50.
326
Ibid. P. 124.
327
Marshall F. London West. London: The Studio, 1944. P. 58.
328
British Travel and Holidays Association. (Прим. пер.)
329
Shopping in London. London: British Travel and Holidays Association, 1953. P. 27.
330
Whife A. (ed.). The Modern Tailor, Outfitter and Clothier. London: Caxton, 1949. P. 8.
331
Ibid. P. 262.
332
Ibid. Pp. 265–271.
333
Men’s Wear. 1947. 25 January. Р. 19.
334
Men’s Wear. 1952. 19 April. Р. 26.
335
Men’s Wear. 1952. 27 September. Р. 18.
336
Beaton C., Tynnan K. Persona Grata. London: Allan Wingate, 1953. Pp. 15–16.
