Кристофер Бруард - Модный Лондон. Одежда и современный мегаполис
84
Madox Ford F. The Soul of London. London: J.M. Dent, 1995 [1905]. P. 48.
85
Pugh E. The City of the World: A Book about London and the Londoner. London: T. Nelson, 1908. P. 39.
86
Burke T. Nights in Town: A London Autobiography. London: George Allen & Unwin, 1915. P. 25.
87
Keating P.J. The Working Classes in Victorian Fiction. London: Routledge & Kegan Paul, 1979. P. 33.
88
См.: Stedman Jones G. Outcast London: A Study in the Relationship between Classes in Victorian Society. Oxford: Oxford University Press, 1971.
89
Холланд-хаус – роскошный особняк в Кенсингтоне. Ледис-майл – дорога для экипажей в Гайд-парке. (Прим. пер.)
90
Nadel I.B. Gustave Dore: English Art and London Life // I.B. Nadel and F.S. Schwarzbach (eds). Victorian Artists and the City: A Collection of Critical Essays. N.Y.: Pergamon, 1980. P. 152. Также см.: Sandison A. Robert Louis Stevenson and the Appearance of Modernism: A Future Feeling. London: Macmillan, 1996. Pp. 224–225.
91
Samuel R. Comers and Goers // H.J. Dyos and M. Wolff (eds). The Victorian City: Images and Realities. Vol. I. London: Routledge, 1999. P. 125.
92
Ibid.
93
Квартал на востоке Лондона. (Прим. пер.)
94
Knight C. London. Vol. III. London: Virtue & Co., 1870. Pp. 49–50.
95
Williams M. QC, Round London. London: Macmillan, 1896. Pp. 74–75.
96
Armfeldt E. Oriental London // G. Sims (ed.). Living London. Vol. I. London: Cassell, 1906. P. 86.
97
Старое название Гуанчжоу. (Прим. ред.)
98
Ibid. Pp. 81–82.
99
Armfeldt E. Italy in London // G. Sims (ed.). Living London. P. 183.
100
Armfeldt E. Cosmopolitan London // G. Sims (ed.). Living London. P. 241.
101
Ibid.
102
Ibid. P. 247.
103
Burke. Nights in Town. P. 91.
104
Schneer J. London 1900: The Imperial Metropolis. New Haven: Yale University Press, 1999. P. 113.
105
См.: Tulloch C. Strawberries and Cream: Dress, Migration and the Quintessence of Englishness // C. Breward, B. Conekin and C. Cox (eds). The Englishness. Oxford: Berg, 2002. Pp. 61–76.
106
Burke. Nights in Town. P. 350.
107
Museum of London accession number 38.295.
108
Sala G. Twice Round the Clock. Houlston Wright. London, 1857. Pp. 175–182.
109
Knight C. London. Vol. V. London: Virtue & Co., 1870. P. 896.
110
Adburgham A. Shopping in Style. London: Thames & Hudson, 1979. Pp. 122–123.
111
Bailey P. Popular Culture and Performance in the Victorian City. Cambridge: Cambridge, 1998. Pp. 200–206.
112
Sala G. London Up to Date. London: A. & C. Black, 1894. P. 248.
113
Mackenzie G. Marylebone: Great City North of Oxford Street. London: Macmillan, 1972. P. 93.
114
Booth C. Life and Labour of the People in London. Vol. I (reprint). N.Y.: Kelly, 1969. P. 182.
115
Ibid. P. 187.
116
Подробное описание условий жизни рабочих в швейной промышленности Лондона XIX в. см. в: Schmiechen J. Sweated Industries and Sweated Labour: The London Clothing Trades 1860–1914. Urbana, IL: University of Illinois Press, 1984; и Walkley C. The Ghost in the Looking Glass: The Victorian Seamstress. London: Peter Owen, 1981.
117
Museum of London accession number 2000.93a-c.
118
Cook E.T. Highways and Byways in London. London: Macmillan, 1911 (reprint). P. 294.
119
Автор цитирует сатирическую поэму Перси Биши Шелли «Питер Белл третий». (Прим. ред.)
120
Cook E.T. Highways and Byways in London. London: Macmillan, 1911 (reprint). P. 297.
121
Знаменитый пожар 1666 г., уничтоживший большую часть города. (Прим. пер.)
122
Nead L. From Alleys to Courts: Obscenity and the Mapping of Victorian London // New Formations. 1999. 37.
123
Pugh E. The City of the World: A Book about London and the Londoner. London: Thomas Nelson & Sons, 1908. Pp. 19–20.
124
Gordon C. Old Time Aldwych, The Kingsway and Neighbourhood. London: T. Fisher Unwin, 1903. P. 23.
125
Ibid. P. 213.
126
A Description of the Offices of The Strand Magazine // The Strand Magazine. IV. July – December 1892. Pp. 594–606.
127
Hollingshead J. Gaiety Chronicles. London: A. Constable, 1898. Pp. 7–13.
128
McQueen Pope W. Gaiety: Theatre of Enchantment. London: W.H. Allen, 1949. P. 384.
129
Maguire H. The Architectural Response // R. Foulkes (ed.). British Theatre in the 1890s. Cambridge: Cambridge University Press, 1992. P. 153.
130
McQueen Pope W. Carriages at Eleven: The Story of the Edwardian Theatre. London: Hutchinson & Co., 1947. P. 116.
131
Jacob N. Me and the Swans. London: Wm. Kimber & Co., 1963. P. 41.
132
McQueen Pope. Carriages. P. 119.
133
McCarthy J. Charing Cross to St Paul’s. London: Seeley & Co., 1893. Pp. 55–57.
134
Ibid. P. 79.
135
Письмо от представительницы Китти Лорд Хейзел Петиг в Музей Лондона. Коллекция одежды Музея Лондона.
136
Programmes for Salone Margherita, Napoli, 1910, Teatro Bellini, 1914 and Ambassadeurs, Paris (undated), Ephemera Collection, Museum of London.
137
Museum of London Accession Number 71.142/5a.
138
Museum of London Accession Number 71.142/6.
139
Museum of London Accession Number 71.142/3a.
140
Museum of London Accession Number 71.142/3b.
141
Museum of London Accession Number 71.142/2c.
142
Museum of London Accession Number 71.142/4a.
143
Museum of London Accession Number 71.142/4c.
144
Museum of London Accession Number 71.142/4d&e.
145
Museum of London Accession Number 71.142/1.
146
Booth M. Theatre in the Victorian Age. Cambridge: Cambridge University Press, 1991. Pp. 114–115.
147
Booth M. (ed.). Victorian Theatrical Trades: Articles from The Stage 1883–1884. The Society for Theatre Research. P. 13.
148
Ibid. P. 14.
149
Ibid. P. 16.
150
Ibid. P. 18.
151
Ibid. P. 19.
152
Ibid. Pp. 20–25.
153
Ibid. P. 1.
154
Ibid. P. 4.
155
Davis T. Actresses as Working Women: Their Social Identity in Victorian Culture. London: Routledge, 1991. Pp. 106–162.
156
Douglas J. Adventures in London. London: Cassell & Co., 1909. Pp. 50–52.
157
Davenport Adams W. A Book of Burlesque. London: Henry & Co., 1891. P. 219.
158
Allen R. Horrible Prettiness: Burlesque and American Culture. Chapel Hill: University of North Carolina Press, 1991. P. 96.
159
Ibid. Pp. 84–87.
160
Ibid. P. 123.
161
Ibid. P. 154.
162
Образ идеальной девушки, созданный американским иллюстратором Чарльзом Гибсоном, популярный на рубеже XIX и XX вв. (Прим. пер.)
163
Reiver B. Is Burlesque Art? London: J. Jeffery, 1880. Pp. 9–10.
164
Allen. Horrible Prettiness. P. 25.
165
Ibid.
166
См.: Stallybrass P., White A. The Politics and Poetics of Transgression. London, 1986.
167
Allen. Horrible Prettiness. P. 26.
168
Ibid. P. 107.
169
Mander R., Mitchenson J. Musical Comedy: A Story in Pictures. London: Peter Davies, 1969. P. 10.
170
Booth M. Victorian Spectacular Theatre. London: Routledge, 1981. P. 58.
171
Archer W. The Theatrical World of 1894. London: Walter Scott, 1895. Pp. 3–6.
172
Booth. Spectacular Theatre. P. 60.
173
Ibid. Pp. 89–90.
174
Short E. Fifty Years of Vaudeville. London: Eyre & Spottiswoode, 1946. P. 43.
175
Mander and Mitchenson. Musical Comedy. P. 13.
176
Ibid.
177
Archer. The Theatrical World. Pp. 59–60.
178
Mander and Mitchenson. Musical Comedy. P. 17.
179
Ibid. Pp. 18–19.
180
Bailey P. Naughty but Nice: Musical Comedy and the Rhetoric of the Girl 1892–1914 // M. Booth and J. Kaplan (eds). The Edwardian Theatre: Essays in Performance and the Stage. Cambridge: Cambridge University Press, 1996. Pp. 39–40. Также см.: Rappaport E. Shopping for Pleasure: Women in the Making of London’s West End. Princeton: Princeton University Press, 2000.
181
Bailey. Naughty but Nice. P. 55.
182
Borsa M. The English Stage of Today. London: John Lane, 1908. P. 7.
183
Ibid. P. 279.
184
Davis. Actresses. P. 161.
185
Collier C. Harlequinade: The Story of my Life. London: John Lane, 1929. Pp. 3–4.
186
Ibid. Pp. 60–61.
187
Ibid. P. 20.
188
Ibid. P. 69.
189
Свенгали – вымышленный герой романа Жоржа дю Морье «Трилби» (1895), эксплуатировавший талант юной певицы Трилби. (Прим. пер.)
190
McQueen Pope. Gaiety. P. 346.
191
Collier. Harlequinade. P. 110.
192
Davis. Actresses. P. 162.
193
Dark S. The Marie Tempest Birthday Book. London: Stanley Paul, 1914. P. 12.
194
Bolitho H. Marie Tempest. London: Cobden Sanderson, 1936. P. 89.
195
Ibid. P. 92.
196
Ibid. Pp. 90–91.
197
Ibid. P. 103.
198
Mrs Aria. Costume: Fanciful, Historical and Theatrical. London: Macmillan, 1906. Pp. 257–258.
199
Douglas. Adventures. P. 127.
200
Bolitho. Tempest. P. 150.
201
Davis. Actresses. P. 159.
202
Lady Wyndham, Charles Wyndham and Mary Moore. London: Private Printing, 1925. P. 243.
203
Ibid. P. 242.
204
Ibid. P. 245.
205
Ibid. P. 247.
206
Ibid. P. 242.
207
Lady Duff Gordon. Discretions and Indiscretions. London: Jarrolds, 1932. P. 48.
208
Vanbrugh I. To Tell My Story. London: Hutchinson & Co., 1948. P. 50; Etherington Smith M., Pilcher J. The It Girls. London: Hamish Hamilton, 1986. Pp. 55–87; Kaplan J., Stowell S. Theatre and Fashion: Oscar Wilde to the Suffragettes. Cambridge: Cambridge University Press, 1994.
209
Duff Gordon. Discretions. P. 65.
210
Davis. Actresses. Pp. 140–143.
211
Borsa. English Stage. P. 5.
